London's Pulse: Medical Officer of Health reports 1848-1972

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City of London 1949

[Report of the Medical Officer of Health for Port of London]

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of large galvanised iron tanks and a supply of tap water from the local
mains.
The raw cockles are first washed in tap water, steamed for six minutes in
the cooking pots, riddled to separate the fish from the shell, and the fish
is then washed in four changes of water to remove sand, weed and pieces of
broken shell.
Preparation for sale.
Cockles for sale locally for immediate consumption are put into a very
light brine for flavouring only and not for preservation. Cockles so treated
are known as "fresh cockles". On a Summer day they will remain fit for
consumption for a few hours only. It is certain that by the end of a warm
day the "fresh cockles" will have started to decompose unless great care is
taken to protect them and to keep them cool. The fishermen are well aware
of this and will only sell "fresh cockles" locally and in comparatively small
quantities.
Cockles for sale in distant markets are salted down in concrete tanks,
using a very heavy brine. When so treated they will keep for several days
even some weeks if the weather is cool. They are known as "salt cockles"
and must be soaked to remove some of the salt before being eaten. Even when
soaked they are not so palatable as the "fresh cockles".
Marketing.
The cockles both fresh and salt are sold by the gallon. Each gallon being
put up in a stockinette bag and up to 20 gallons being packed into a wicker
basket.
Some of the firms liave their 07m motor vehicles fitted with metal tanks
for delivery. The majority of cockles, however, still go by rail to the
distant markets.
Jurisdiction.
The Port Health Authority by virtue of the Public Health (Shellfish)
Regulations 1934 and the Order made thereunder, exercises supervision over the
gathering grounds which are within the Port of London, and also controls the
operation of cleansing the Shellfish - in this instance the sterilization
by steam for six minutes.
The marketing of the Shellfish is supervised by the local Authority and
Food and Drugs Authority in whose area the Shellfish are offered for sale.
During the Summer, samples of Shellfish had been taken for bacteriological
examination. The results did not give cause for anxiety. But on receipt of the
information of food poisoning, further samples were taken in cooperation with the
Borough of Southend-on-Sea.
A "short term policy" was devised to ensure as far as possible that Shellfish)
especially cockles landed and cooked at Leigh, should be marketed in good
condition.
There were four main points.
1. The period of steam contact in the cooking process was temporarily increased
from six minutes to seven minutes.
2. The practice of washing the raw cockles in tidal water was discontinued
and the cockles were washed in fresh water from the town mains.
3. The use of certain gathering grounds was temporarily discontinued.
4. The method of handling the cooked cockles was carefully examined with a
view to an improvement in hygiene where possible.
(36)