London's Pulse: Medical Officer of Health reports 1848-1972

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Heston and Isleworth 1936

[Report of the Medical Officer of Health for Heston and Isleworth]

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Nutrition.
The writing of the Cookery Book* has been a much more extended and tiresome task than
was anticipated. It has been based entirely on research and will, I trust, be a definite contribution
to the dietetic pleasures and efficiency of those whose means have to be watched carefully.
In order to save the housewife's time the instructions have been set out fully under each
recipe, very often being repeated in recipe after recipe. This has been done in view of the fact
that this Cookery Book is, I hope, going to be used by people whose time is valuable and who
cannot be bothered to keep referring back to page this and page that, for each and every detail
of the recipe. These references have been reduced to an absolute minimum.
Everything has been done to make the book as complete and as easy in its understanding
and reference as it possibly can be.
I have laid great emphasis on the use of deep fat frying as a method of cookery. One
finds that whilst the majority of the mothers one comes across in one's work utilise or frequent
the fish and chip shop, by reason of the tastiness of its products as much as for its convenience,
that deep fat frying, as far as their home life is concerned, is one of the most neglected forms of
cookery. Whilst it is, as I have said, one of the most neglected forms, it should be one of the
most used forms (a) by reason of the healthiness of the food through lack of grease and (b) byreason
of the tastiness of the result.
The difficulty is the dietetic ruts into which people get, and get so easily. As I have said
elsewhere, it is almost as hard to get people to change their dietetic habits as i their religion. It
is becoming increasingly difficult to get time spent on good cookery, as not only in this country
are they utilising tinned foods more and more, but the habit has even got into the French housewife's
mind and the old-fashioned, thrifty housewife of France, who marketed with an economy
which we used to admire so much, is rapidly becoming a thing of the past.
Criticism may be levelled at the recipes in the Cookery Book by reason of the number of
things which are included in the majority of them, but I have done this deliberately in order to
produce flavour in the dish itself.
As Sir Isidore Salmon, the Head of the great Lyons organisation put it to me once," You
can't get the flavour out unless you put the goods in."
I want to try and overcome the habit which is so ingrained in many of our lower paid
workers, the habit of covering everything hot or cold with strong sauce. They might just as well
devour pieces of their doormat soaked with sauce for all the pleasure they get out of their food.
Their whole week's food, in many cases, is merely something or other covered with the particular
sauce they fancy.
Whilst sauce can be introduced into the diet for flavouring purposes it;should be used in
very small quantities just to tickle up the flavour in a certain direction.
These numerous additions may be criticised as making it unduly extravagant or unduly
complicated. It is really neither. As far as complication is concerned it is very easy to get into
the habit of using the various materials; whilst as far as expense is concerned, in view of the
fact that the food materials used cost less than half the price of those in general use, there is
ample margin to make the food really palatable and at the same time save money.
I want to emphasise the word which was used over and over again at the exhibition and
demonstration I gave at the Isleworth Public Hall. It resolved itself into one word, and one
word only which was " Delicious.
I want very much to inculate the habit of cooking properly because I feel from the children's
point of view it is so important.
An immense amount of time and thought has been spent on this Cookery Book and now
that it is complete with the information as to the actual value of the different dishes contained in
it, I trust that it will be a real contribution not only towards the nutrition of those who use it,
but a real source of pleasure. After all, a good meal is as much a matter of harmonious blending
of materials and flavours as a well harmonised piece of music, and the result to the palate should
be the same as the result of harmonies to the ear.
The basis of the Cookery Book has been a careful research utilising the cheaper cuts of
meat such as clod and sticking piece, flank of beef and other bye-products of ordinary diet such
as scrap bacon, biscuit dust and various other things, all of which are palatable and produce a
highly nutritious diet at low cost.
It is a matter of regret that the scientific details which led up to the production of the
Cookery Book cannot be printed in this Report, but it is hoped that other arrangements may be
made for their publication.
The Cookery Book of course gives no idea of the amount of work which went into each
recipe in order to come out at the price at which it is published, giving no space for the setting
out of the protein and vitamin contents of the various ingredients and the actual cost of the dishes
and their constituent items which go to show the thoroughness with which the work was done.
*(Dr. Nash's Cookery Book, 6d. net, Published by Simpkin, Marshall, Ltd., Stationers' Hall Court, London,
E.C.4).
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