Hints from the Health Department. Leaflet from the archive of the Society of Medical Officers of Health. Credit: Wellcome Collection, London
[Report of the Medical Officer of Health for London County Council]
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mistress wrote that on testing the needlework class after seven lessons, including three preliminary
lessons, no child could really work a hemming exercise, holding needle and work quite correctly, and
that several further lessons would be necessary. Mr. Cecil Rowntree finds the sewing drill in universal
disfavour. It appears a laborious unattractive and clumsy method of aiming at a result probably
to be attained by much simpler methods. One headmistress stated, and probably it is not uncommon,
that she teaches the children sewing first and the sewing drill afterwards.
Actual size. C (Aet. 12)—The gusset has 46 stitches to the inch. D (Aet. 7-8)—Hemming specimen with
13 stitches below and 25 above. E, F—Backstitching, unnecessary and hurtful, threads counted.
In some schools the children of standard I. made six stitches to the inch, in others ten, but the
specimens kept for exhibition average about fourteen. Too much stress is laid on regularity. It is
impossible for a teacher to obtain regularity, and to attend to ensuring the proper working distance
in a large class. The first will come without teaching, but the last, if neglected, means the establishment
of the most harmful of school habits. As regards the time given to the respective exercises in
needlework, the working of specimens bulks greatest. In one school it was stated to take three-quarters
of the whole time devoted to needlework. In a year in the higher standards, each child makes one
garment for sale. They do not necessarily in all schools make even one, but they always have five or
six specimens of each stitch required. These specimens are thus considered an end in themselves, instead
of a means to an end, and attain a much more surprising standard of excellence than the work in the
garments. Far too many are worked in order to attain a uniform standard of excellence. It is
painful to the eyes to examine some specimens where there are 40 to 50 stitches to the inch.
The Counting of Threads.—In the London County Council Code, 1905, p. 77, it is stated :—
"Counting of threads should never be practised. This habit is not merely dangerous to the sight of the children
it is also inconsistent with the use of needlework as a hand and eye training."
In spite of this prohibition, darning and herring-bone stitch are taught on canvas, by this unnecessary
and eye straining method. A class of 59 (standards III. and IV.) girls being taught herringbone
stitch on a large frame containing squares of knotted tape, was taught to recite—
Count down four,
Count along four,
Take up two.
At the corner—
turn needle up
turn frame round
turn canvas round.
and although later in practice it may not be done on flannel in this way, yet many specimens of flannel
herring-bone work can be found strongly reminiscent of the "count down four" formula. Darning
also is taught on canvas by counting stitches, so that although the method is supposed to be abandoned
as soon as the process is learned, on examining a darned specimen there can be little doubt that the
work is done by the thread. Fine work, such as the cross cut or the hedge tear is generally done by
counting threads. This class of work is done by matching colour and texture with marvellous perfection
in France, "Stoppage" ; but the effects on the eyes of the workers are notorious. The